PETZL is a leading manufacturer of climbing and work-at-height equipment and The Tools and Techniques sport catalog is still available as a PDF. The catalog continues in this vein. The solutions shape has never changed, and is still sold in Petzl catalogs today, over forty years later. Fernand paid. TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES Sharing expertise “My father, Fernand Petzl, was an artisan and explorer with a passion for caving. For him.
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Post on Nov views. For him, creating and refining equipment was a profound pleasure. He was an obsessive, creative worker who offered his ideas to help his companions by producing the tools they needed to explore the caves of Chartreuse and Vercors France. From my childhood, I was immersed in this enthusiasm for discovery.
Afterwards, at Petzl, we have always started with this idea: Tools that help them progress and commit in vertical or dark terrain. Innovative, useful, safe tools, often designed above and beyond the requirements of existing gear.
Petzl has cataoogo changes to practices and techniques that have allowed revolutions to take place in activities related to lighting and verticality – the two areas of expertise in the company. The headlamp in the mountains, the GRIGRI in climbing For forty years innovation has been at the heart of our business – and it remains so now more than ever.
By its very nature, progression has no limits: Today I hope that we share the experience and technical expertise we have acquired at Petzl as widely as possible with those who participate in these activities. It is with the desire to continue to propose and share solutions for progression that we have prepared this edition of the Petzl catalogue.
Paul Petzll PresidentPartner check: Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.
However, learning the right catakogo, both for climbing and for using the cxtalogo, significantly reduces the risk of accident.
But this learning is not everything. Force of habit, over-confidence, and fatigue can all reduce vigilance.
For greater security, why not take advantage of the fact that there are usually two climbers? Particularly before really getting started, when the equipment is being put into place. At the crag, as in the mountains, making it a rule to partner check before leaving 2011 ground will make the climbing more relaxed. Jocelyn ChavyClimber check 22011 belayer: Proper tie-in with tight knotBelayer check by climber: Rope positioned correctly in belay device Locked carabiner Knot tied at end of rope”Seriously, Dad, I never thought this could happen to you!
I can still hear the voices coming through the fog of my bewildered conscience: And yet Yet it had been a Sunday like any other. Sure, I was a bit tired, a little preoccupied, and in a somewhat noisy gym.
It was neither the serac fall of the century, nor the collapse of the West Face of the Drus! No reassuring explanation to help me accept the unacceptable. Reasoning only increased my incomprehension. In my twenty-five years of amateur mountaineering and climbing, never an accident, not even a close call. Maybe one time a few rocks heard falling a bit too close Im quite a safety fanatic, according to my friends. A case in point: I had even backed up my sons belay to an overstuffed pack.
And yet that Sunday I made an error that could have cost me my life. So, was it fate? Any day, a seemingly innocent series of events can lead to what many experts have sadly experienced. This one day could be your last. However, with a simple partner check of equipment prior to climbing, it is easy to practically remove this type of risk.
Participants in other exposed activities, such as divers, have understood and implemented this concept for a long time. Why not we climbers, mountaineers and cavers? It is time for us, specially the regular participants, to adopt new habits. The lead climber is stuck at a bolt in the middle of a pitch. The easiest option is to be lowered on top-rope, leaving the quickdraws and asking someone to collect them later, or collecting them yourself after climbing a route next to it.
If none of these options is possible, how can you descend and clean the route with limited risk? Lowering off two pointsLowering with Prusik LafoucheDescend on a single bolt? Place a quick link in the bolt between the quickdraw and the rock. Thread the rope 201 the quick link; lock it tightly. Lower to the next bolt. Descend and clean the route. Consequences of a broken bolt If the top bolt breaks, the climber cataligo be held by the second bolt.
Transfer weight to your feet to reduce tension on the quickdraw. Make a Prusik knot with a cordelette and attach it to the belay loop of your harness with a locking carabiner. Consequences of a broken bolt If the top bolt breaks, the climber will be held under the next quickdraw by the Prusik knot. Technique tested on a 4m fall with an 80kg weight, using a 7mm Prusik cordelette and a single 9. Stress on the bolt The stress on the bolt is approximately 25daN higher with lowering than with rappelling for two people of 70kg.
This number is negligible compared to the strength required of a bolt daN. The stresses placed on a bolt when lowering or rappelling are therefore practically identical.
Petzl Sport Catalog En – [PDF Document]
Lowering is therefore recommended since it allows the climber to remain tied in throughout the lowering process. The Prusik knot is a multidirectional knot, jamming in both directions.
Find a complete list of products and descriptions in the products section. No need to go quickly; rather, establish a good rhythm. Make a knot at the end of a sling and clip it into the carabiner.
This will be your footloop.
Place the quickdraw into the sling above the knot. The length of the sling should allow you to stand up in it for ascending. This maneuver creates slack in the rope above the tie-in knot. For maximum efficiency, keep the body aligned with the rope.
In multi-pitch climbs, a situation can quickly become complicated and delicate. Imagine that it is impossible to grab the rope or the rock, or to be lowered by the second not enough rope. The only solution catlogo to be autonomous and ascend the rope alone. On multi-pitch routes, they should never be forgotten!
At first glance, nothing too complicated. In the detail, though, there are many aspects to consider in order to move quickly and surely: For example, when clipping a half rope in the middle of a crux with a small carabiner, good clipping skills are a must 2 1 Here are some tips for making life easier and climbing in peace.
Never put an anchor-end carabiner on the rope-end. An anchor-end carabiner may become slightly nicked with use. During a fall, if the rope rubs on such a nick, it can become damaged and require early retirement.
It would be too rigid: The rope in the carabiner must pass through it from the cliff side to the outside. Incorrect positioning of the quickdraw or the rope could cause the rope to unclip, either due to rope movement or to the carabiner flipping on the catalobo during a fall.
Stabilize the quickdraw 201 and put the rope through it. Then insert the rope. Be sure that the pictogram of the person on the black side plate is on the side of the victim.
Before closing the pulley for the transfer, remember to engage the toothed cam to allow jamming. Verify the jamming direction.
Index of /~vladimar/software_speleo/Catalogos/Petzl 2011/pdf
Slide the progress capture pulley down the rope to put the sling under tension. Slowly and smoothly transfer the weight. The rescuer places partial tension on the anchor to check that it is solid. He can then transfer the entire load. Once the load is on the anchor, the remainder of the rescue can be organized: A dead-man anchor is used The principle is to use an object that provides sufficient resistance to the tension exerted on it.
In snow, you can bury an ice axe, a backpack, a ski. If there is ice, you will need an ice screw. Complete the anchor by attaching a long sling. In snow, it is important to place the sling in a groove in the anticipated direction of pull so that the buried object is not pulled out.
If progression is on a taut rope, the appropriate reflex of the surface climbers would be to arrest the fall with their counterweight. Once the fall is arrested, the first priority is to create an anchor to support the weight of the victim. With a party of two, the surface climber is alone.