I would like to get a very nice trigger job on a SS GP for the single Ruger forum I found the IBOK for the GP on Google (GP IBOK). I received the GP pdf this morning. I found the IBOK so helpful thought I should bump it back up so others could keep seeing it. There is a great resource called the GP IBOK that is a must have the original author had to remove it due to copywrite claims but you can.
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Its robust design evolved from the older Security-Six series. The GP has a larger frame, thicker cylinder, improved grip mounting system, trigger return spring, front sight, internal cylinder retainer, and trigger guard latch.
New GP – Survivalist Forum
Ruger engineers did an excellent job designing the GP Most of the parts are contained by push-out pins or spring-loaded plungers and a mere 3 screws. The design is biok modular concept with three main assemblies.
The barrel and frame are the host assembly. The trigger guard assembly and cylinder gl100 make up the rest of the gun. The GP has been manufactured in several configurations but the internal parts are all interchangeable. Primarily, the different variations have to do with barrel length, barrel shroud, sights, and grips. GPs have been produced in both blued and stainless steel models.
The only other parts that are unique to a certain model are the cylinders when chambered for a 38 Special or Magnum or hammers in DAO models bobbed. GPs with fixed sights are equipped with compact rubber grips with inserts.
The adjustable sight models come with full sized rubber grips with inserts. Grips are interchangeable between all models and are also the same as Ruger Super Redhawk grips. The grip inserts for the compact grips are the same size as SP inserts. This unique system allows the front sight to be changed in seconds by pushing in the front sight plunger and lifting the sight out of the channel.
The standard front sight is black. Super Redhawk front sights are interchangeable with the GP and have a red insert. There are several Ruger and aftermarket plug-in front sights available in different colors or styles.
The adjustable rear sights are the same as most other Ruger revolvers and are click-adjustable for both windage and elevation. Some rear sights have a white outline blade gp1000 others are black go100 V-notch.
Fixed sight models are available in 3 and 4 inch barrels. Adjustable sight models are available in 4 and 6 inch barrels. Base metal and finish: GPs are made in two ubok configurations. The blued models are investment cast from high strength steel and are finished with a hot blue process. Bluing only affects the surface of the metal so it will wear off, especially from using holsters.
The surface is resistant to corrosion but it will rust easily if moisture iibok allowed to contact the gun. This could be from the climate or from fingerprints. Normally, a light coat of rust preventative oil will protect the surface from rusting. The worst thing you can do with any blued gun is to store them in a leather holster. Stainless steel investment cast GPs are much more resistant to corrosion. In extreme cases, even a stainless gun will rust.
All Ruger stainless guns also have stainless steel internal parts. The exceptions are the springs where stainless is inferior. Besides the springs, the gpp100 non-stainless parts are the grips and sights. Many times, specs are borrowed from another firearm brand and are meaningless due to different designs. Refer to the schematic when part numbers are referenced. Examine the overall fit and finish. Likely you will find scratches, machine marks and other cosmetic iboo that have no affect on function.
Rugers are intended to be a strong durable gun but seldom do you find one ggp100 a perfect finish or where the cosmetic fit is up to the standards of more expensive manufacturers.
You will need an automotive type gap ibook set looks like a pocket knife with multiple blades of different thickness, AKA feeler gauge.
With the gun in ggp100 static condition, hold the cylinder to the rear and slide the thickest gap gauge blade that will fit between the rear barrel surface and the front face of the cylinder.
If the gap is too tight, the cylinder will drag on the barrel when it gets fouled from shooting. If the gap is too wide, you will loose a little velocity but accuracy will not be affected. Repeat the same test only this time hold the cylinder forward and insert the thickest blade that fits with minimal friction. Subtract the last measurement from the first one. If endshake is too tight, the gun may bind up when you shoot it. If endshake is too loose, it could affect other functions of the gun such as cylinder timing, light primer hits, and cylinder lock-up.
Insert the case in a chamber and locate it directly in line with the firing pin hole. While holding the cylinder firmly to the rear, slide the thickest blade of a gap gauge that will fit with friction between the case head and recoil shield frame. If headspace is too tight, the case heads may drag on the recoil shield and hamper cylinder movement. This requires using a Range Rod and a calibrated cartridge case. Insert the Range Rod into the bore and push it in slowly until the tip of the Range Rod moves through the cylinder and contacts the frame.
You may have to help it a little by wiggling the cylinder. Pull the Range Rod out until the tip is past the face of the cylinder and g1p00 the collar in reference to the muzzle. This will give an indication on how deep ibokk Range Rod has been inserted when testing. Ibko and feel for the feeler tip of the Range Rod to contact the cylinder face as you move the Range Rod in and out. If all chambers pass this test, the gun is within specifications. Timing is the series of events that happen from pg100 moment you begin to squeeze the trigger in DA or begin to cock the hammer in SA and ends when the trigger gp010 resets for the next shot.
• View topic – IBOK for GP
As the hammer is gp100 cocked: Trigger begins to move to the rear. Cylinder latch is pulled down, releasing the cylinder. The pawl engages the extractor ratchet and begins to rotate the cylinder CCW. Cylinder latch is released and snaps up to ride on the cylinder.
Cylinder latch engages the cylinder notch. Transfer bar is lifted into position.
Pawl cams off of the extractor ratchet. Hammer reaches the cocking point and is held to the rear by the SA sear. As the trigger is pulled: Trigger moves to the rear raising the transfer bar slightly. SA sear releases the hammer. Hammer moves forward under tension of the hammer spring.
Hammer strikes the transfer bar. Transfer bar strikes the firing pin. Firing pin strikes the primer causing the gun to fire. Firing pin retracts under spring tension. As the trigger is released: Trigger begins to move forward.
Transfer bar is pulled down. Trigger plunger resets on cylinder latch. Pawl is pulled down to reset position. Trigger is fully forward and at rest.
As the trigger is pulled 1. Trigger cams the hammer back.
Pawl moves up and begins to rotate the cylinder CCW. Cylinder latch is released and pops up to ride on the cylinder. Trigger and hammer continue to move to the rear raising the transfer bar. Cylinder stop engages the cylinder notch and locks. Hammer dog releases the hammer allowing it gp10 transfer to the DA sear.
DA sear releases hammer allowing it to spring forward. Swing the cylinder open and look for the cylinder latch that is located on the bottom flat area of the frame, just above the trigger. Now close the cylinder and rotate it slightly until the cylinder locks up. Watch the cylinder latch from the right side ibokk you begin cocking the hammer. The cylinder latch should drop and free the cylinder before g1p00 cylinder actually begins to rotate. Do the same bp100 in DA by pulling the trigger and watching the cylinder latch.
Again, the latch should drop before the cylinder begins to rotate. If initial timing is slow, the cylinder will try to rotate before it is released.
This will cause a bind in DA trigger pull or a hard start cocking for SA.